This topic actually brings up a few issues, so here's some scattered thoughts in reply.
In a powered circuit, two caps that spec out essentially the same may respond quite differently. In such a situation, therefore, it could well make a difference whether it's mylar or "lemon drop" or disk or whatever.
But in a passive & weak circuit like rolling off pickup tone, it really can't make much nevermind. True, if you're talking supermegahot humbuckers, the sort that could darned near spark a gap if you nail a power chord, maybe that's enough juice to make a discernible difference. But a vintage-spec PAF? Nah.
What catches me here is the fraud that Gibson is perpetrating. Bad enough that they're selling a vastly overpriced gewgaw as somehow "just like the original," but looking at that two-shot, you'd think that their counterfeit would at least look like what it's SUPPOSED to look like. Jeez -- if I'm gonna pay (at all) for a forgery, I'd at least want a GOOD forgery.
It capitalizes on ignorance. IME, plain ol' caps -- not electrolytic -- last bloody forever unless they're actually cracked or exploded. I've reused caps from 1930s radio circuits!! The exception would be really ancient waxed-paper jobbies, but even many of those would do just fine in a passive circuit. It'd make a LOT more sense to spec a "classic" cap for its actual capacitance, & find something on the shelf that tests to the same value.
Every fool with more money than sense thinks he's going to "recap" stuff & magically get some "classic" tone. I wouldn't encourage this... but if some halfwit's waving his $100 in my face, I'd be glad to do the work.
In working guitars, I prefer to replace brown ceramic disks with greenies, because the former get pretty beat-up with the years; I've pulled a few that were snapped in half. Greenies are cheap & common, & in passive tone circuits I can't see where bright colors (orange, yellow, bumblebee) will make a difference.